The Path of Champions Event Guide. Deck Guides. Spoiler Reviews. Jayce Review and Theorycraft. User login or sign up Log In sign up reset password want to login? Right click and save image or click the button download. Skip to content Beginner's Guides 1. Determining Your Role. Share this: Twitter Facebook. HarleyUK says:. May 25, at am. Wizards of the Coast. Non-English Reprint sets. Renaissance Rinascimento Salvat Salvat Unglued Unhinged Unstable Unsanctioned Unfinity.
MTG Arena. Categories Magic compilation sets Theme decks Add category. Cancel Save. Universal Conquest Wiki. Paul Peterson lead Michael Donais. A Ronin Houndmaster might be the preferred three-drop but you can still hit with a Villainous Ogre or a Shinka Gatekeeper and they'll probably do the job in a lot of cases.
Similarly your removal spell could be a Yamabushi's Flame or a Spiralling Embers or a Befoul but they'll all usually take out any early blockers your opponent makes. Control decks are very different though. They need to establish control so they need to draw the relevant defensive cards that allow them to do that. They also need to win the game so they need creatures that can attack — typically flyers — as well.
If they draw all their defensive cards they give the beatdown decks enough time to establish a board advantage and perhaps use one of their finishers to end the game. If they draw all of their flyers then they'll often lose simply because their creatures are weaker and more fragile. There's a very old quote that I believe is attributed to old-school Magic player Dave Price:.
Active decks, on the other hand, produce threats, and control decks must have the right answer to the right threat. If not, they're in trouble. While there are wrong answers, there are no wrong threats. Any control deck needs to draw a very precise balance of answers to your threats as well as ways to actually win the game when they've done that in case they lose the control they've worked so hard to establish.
A good beatdown deck on the other hand consists of nothing but solid threats and cards that remove blockers that answer those threats. This means there are a much wider variety of cards the beatdown deck can draw, as it normally has no requirement to draw specific answers to questions posed by opposing decks.
The mid-range decks that also exist in a lot of formats tend to just try and ride their superior card quality to victory. This can sometimes work but often the beatdown decks will be able to steal victory from the slower mid-range decks before these decks can establish themselves.
I did previously mention the importance of mana curve when you're drafting beatdown and that is the one element you really do need to focus on during a draft. If you're drafting beatdown you need to establish early threats. You need to put pressure on your opponent and force them onto the back foot immediately.
In most formats this means having a lot of decent threats at the two and three mana level so you can drop a decent creature on turns two and three with some degree of consistency. A typical beatdown deck in this current format will probably have around sixteen creatures and will have a mana curve that looks something like this:.
There's some room for variation there, and you might even what to see a few one-drops depending on the style of your deck. That's basically what you should be aiming for though. A mana curve like that gives you a good chance of dropping creatures every turn from the second turn onwards. Note that you probably won't play any creature costs more than five mana, unless it's something really powerful like a Dragon or something similar. This is because the beatdown deck doesn't ever want to sit with dead cards in its hand and expensive cards can often do that when you don't draw the lands you need to cast them.
You want to keep the mana curve low so you can continue to deploy threats even if you stall on three or four lands.
You can have more lands, but if you are too far behind on the board when you reach the point of interacting, you will lose the game anyway limited demonstrates this very well. Thus, the first component of situational advantage is board advantage, but the second is mana advantage.
The issue is that stack advantage is also part of situational advantage. This is because controlling the stack allows you to affect the board, in the sense that it allows you to prevent spells from hitting the table. Since blue is the only color that can create stack advantage, blue is always advantaged over other colors in this respect, making it easier for blue to seize a situational advantage, since it always has a component of situational advantage locked down.
So initiative advantage breaks down into two parts. Match-up initiative is dealt with by Flores, but what are the Flores-ian questions for situational advantage? Does one player have an overwhelming mana advantage? If so, he can have board advantage. Does one player have a dominant permanent? Almost certainly, he has the board advantage. The important thing about situational advantage to remember is that it is transient.
It can be lost and regained through play, but also through luck. Thus, situational advantage must be used when you have it, it must be taken advantage of. If you do so properly, you can push for a win. TAGS articles , theory. Sign In. Vanguard CardFight!! Vanguard Ahoy!
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